Organically produced food and organic products are now an important part of Dalmatia’s gastronomic offerings. With a group of tour guides from Zadar and Šibenik, I visited several family farms in the hinterland of Zadar.
1.We first visited DAR-MAR FARM, which produces organic donkey milk. Valentina told us some of the history and interesting facts about the farm. The farm was founded by her father. In the early 1990s, he bought his first donkey. He donated it to the army on Velebit, where it helped transport weapons and food during the Homeland War. He later bought another one. Through the skillful purchase of male and female donkeys and their careful breeding, the farm at one point had over 100 donkeys. They are a native species, a coastal Dinaric donkey. A distinctive cross is found on their backs. This species of donkey is said to be excellent at defending itself against wolves.
Over time, the herd dwindled to about 50 animals, of which 20–25 were dairy donkeys.
Housing, feeding, milking, reproduction, and herd renewal had to be coordinated.
Sadly, their father died three years ago. For two days, there was silence in the stable, which speaks to the sensitivity of this donkey species.
The entire family, Valentina, her three siblings, and her mother, continued to manage the farm.
At the Dar-Mar farm, the family focuses on selling donkey milk. Their tasks include milking, storing, and selling the milk.
It should be noted that most of their customers are locals.
They also offer donkey milk tastings for tourist groups.
Parallel to this, another donkey farm is known for producing cosmetics based on donkey milk.
Valentina is a physiotherapist by profession and is dedicated to researching the properties of donkey milk. Interestingly, this milk is closest to human milk in its properties. And it is easily digestible.
The price for 1 liter is 70 euros, and it is sold in 1-dl bottles. The recommended daily amount is exactly 1 dl.
According to historical sources, Cleopatra bathed in donkey milk. The ancient Egyptians were well versed in the secrets of medicine and beauty.
Valentina tells us that donkey milk was consumed during the Homeland War when there was a whooping cough epidemic.
In the spring, the donkeys are kept on pasture, and the rest of the year they feed on hay and corn. Grazing in this Dalmatian region, where the barren land produces little but a great deal of strength, makes this milk different and better than, for example, the milk from the same donkey breed in Slovenia. So, if you have the chance, go to the Dar Mar Farm, spend time with the donkeys, and taste the milk. You’ll also learn the story of a family that developed a family business out of the desire to preserve the Dalmatian-Dinaric heritage.
The farm is expanding, and there are not only donkeys, but also a flock of sheep, goats, and chickens.
This hardworking family does exceptional work and produces healthy food organically.
2. ŠINJORINA SMOKVA is a family farm that produces organic jam.
The owners are a couple, Sandra and Alen. They were welcomed with fig jam and rakija that had been aged in barrels for two years. How about a barrique rakija?
Sandra is from here, and Alen is from Zagreb. For 12 years now, they have had a facility for cooking, preparing, and bottling jam made from quince, maraschino cherries, plums, figs, and tangerines. They planted their first 100 fig trees right next to their house about 15 years ago. Later, they expanded their orchards to other areas. They don’t yet have their own maraschino cherries and tangerines, but purchase them from trusted producers. Their production is organic, without preservatives or sugar.
The most common fruit among them is the fig. They also make sure to plant a fig tree in olive groves, as they say the fig tree is the guardian of the olive grove. Flies attack fig fruits, but the fig nectar is lethal to them, and the flies die. Thus, the fig tree is protected.
Fig cheese is also made from the same jelly. People used to eat this cheese. It was especially recommended for breastfeeding mothers. In the past, people would tend sheep, milk some milk, and add a few drops of fig jelly. It wouldn’t take long for the milk to curdle. Sandra and Alen grow different fig varieties in different areas: Guinea pig, Zelenka, Bjelica, Petrovača…
Sandra has prepared a tasting menu for us:
1.The first course consists of cottage cheese, fig jam, and capers.
2.The second course consisted of pancetta, cheese, and fig jam.
3.The third course consisted of tangerine cake, whipped cream, and tangerine jam.
These sequences were interesting. Seemingly incompatible ingredients create fantastic flavors.
Interestingly, Sandra and Alen have a donkey, and soon a female donkey from Valentina’s farm will be joining them. They also have a Bušak mare, a native horse breed. She is one of 48 remaining Bušak breeds in the entire world. And the good news is that she is pregnant and will give birth to her 49th Bušak baby in two months. This mare spent two years in the zoo with the horse Bušak. That’s how long it took for the mare to reach this stage. Of course, the reproductive process is much faster in donkeys.
3. We tasted organic olive oil at the DUŠEVIĆ family farm.
Mate Dušević and his wife produced around 5,000 liters of organic olive oil last year. He is also a professional oil taster.
Thanks to the many different olive varieties, they also offer several olive oil varieties.
They also have vineyards. We tasted a white blend and a Merlot. However, they produce wines in much smaller quantities. Mate admits that viticulture is much more demanding than olive cultivation.
It’s worth mentioning that an oil tasting center has already been established, which also offers delicious sausages and cheeses made on-site, and, of course, wine.
We learned that these climate changes are not conducive to the local variety. It is increasingly being replaced by the more heat-resistant and higher-yielding Italian variety Coratina.
Highly recommend OPG Dušević. These hardworking people are truly welcoming hosts.
4. And in the end, all that’s left is fun. We visited the Buffalo Bill City theme park. They offer pure ecological fun. It’s a town like the Old West, only not in the desert, but in a green oasis. Ivanica and her Italian husband built the place and put all their creativity and soul into it. There’s a saloon, a bank, a jail, a hotel, a cemetery, a children’s playground, a music wall, and even a Coca-Cola museum. Ivanica’s husband is an artist, and this place is truly his masterpiece.
It’s an ideal place to celebrate children’s and adults’ birthdays, socialize, and fool around with cowboy hats and Colts.
An ideal Instagram spot.
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